food orleans

the way of the dough, or the eternal olive ring

foodorleans — Fri, 18 May 2012 12:06:18 CDT

One thing I've learned about bread-baking is that the baker must adapt to whatever the dough has decided to do...but that it's really not a big secret how to make a good dough. It usually comes down to starting with a small amount of flour and adding more only if you need it (I usually do, because I live in such a humid place). Really good bread recipes will give you that small amount of flour to start with and advise you to add flour in small doses if necessary. I used to shy away from recipes that said anything about "adding more if needed," because I didn't trust myself to know if it needed it or not. But working through some of the stickier doughs in The Bread Bible, plus experiencing Jim Lahey's no-knead bread, has helped me relax more, and realize that stickiness can be a great thing. In fact, the smallest amount of flour you can get away with is usually what will turn out a tender, airy loaf. It is important to start with a good recipe, though.

The Bread Bible, by Rose Levy Beranbaum, is one of the best books I've ever read, period. It's a well-detailed encyclopedia of all sorts of breads, with historical notes; by-hand, mixer, or food processor versions if applicable; and a host of tips (each recipe is followed by a "Pointers for Success" bullet point and an "Understanding" section, in which you learn why you just did a certain maneuver, like soaking bulgur or cooking cracked wheat). I've read several bread books before, and they just rarely get any better than this. The pizza dough alone is worth the price of the book. This olive ring I made today is based on her "prosciutto ring" (one of the sticky doughs), which has little flakes of prosciutto kneaded into it and is brushed with bacon fat (!) before baking. Last summer, that prosciutto ring wriggled its way into our bleak, bread-starved lives. I love it still, but I really wanted to try an olive version of the same dough, with melted butter--a vegetarian version of the prosciutto ring, if you will. The dough is pretty quick to put together and get into the oven, compared to other artisan-style loaves. You can have the whole process done in less than 2 1/2 hours, with very little hands-on work if you have a mixer to knead it for you.

Above: After kneading seven minutes, the dough is way too wet, almost like a batter. I kneaded in 5 Tablespoons more flour, 1 Tablespoon at a time, and got this:

Kneading in the olives added more oil to the dough (even though I'd patted them dry), so I added yet another 2 Tablespoons of flour to keep the dough workable.

The stone and the pan.

This bread turns out extra-savory due to the bitterness of the olives, and is perfect for hummus, goat cheese, or dipping into a fruity olive oil. Of course, the eternal olive ring won't physically last forever. It will be devoured, possibly in one sitting by only one or two people, possibly still hot from the oven. But its memory will live on in your gastronomic heart, all the more so because you made it.

the eternal olive ring (based on "Prosciutto Ring" in The Bread Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum)

2 1/4 cups bread flour, plus additional if needed and for dusting
1 Tablespoon sugar or honey
3/4 teaspoon instant yeast (I use Fleischmann's Bread Machine Yeast)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 liquid cup water, at room temperature (70 to 90 degrees)
1/2 cup chopped green and black olives, patted very dry
4 teaspoons butter, melted
1/2 cup ice cubes

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the flour, sugar, yeast, and black pepper (you can do this with a regular old whisk instead of the whisk attachment). Then whisk in the salt. Attach the dough hook, turn the mixer on low speed (#2), add the water, and mix for a minute, until all the flour is moistened (scrape down the sides if necessary). Knead the dough on medium speed (#4 on a KitchenAid) for 7 minutes.
The dough should be sticky, but shouldn't stick to your finger if you touch it. If it's too wet, knead in extra flour, 1 Tablespoon at a time, until it's right. If it's not sticky at all, but is rather dry, spray it with a little water and knead it in.
Add the olives and mix on low speed until evenly incorporated (you might need to add in a little more flour now if the olives are very oily). Dust the dough lightly with flour, cover with plastic wrap, and allow to rest for 20 minutes.
Shape the dough and let rise: Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and roll it around a little to lightly flour all surfaces of the dough. Roll the dough between your hands and the counter into an 18"-long rope, dusting with flour as necessary. Shape the rope into a ring, overlapping the ends by 2" and pinching the seams together. Transfer the ring to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (the ring should be about 7" in diameter). Oil a piece of plastic wrap and cover the dough with it, oiled side touching the dough. Let rise at warm room temperature for an hour, until doubled in bulk (the ring will be about 9" in diameter).
Meanwhile, preheat the oven: once the loaf is shaped, set a rack in the lowest position and place a baking stone on it. Set a baking sheet on the floor of the oven under the stone (I use an old broiler pan for this--it's to hold the ice cubes). Turn the oven to 450 and let it preheat for about an hour.
When the loaf is doubled, brush it with half the melted butter and slide it, parchment paper included, onto the hot baking stone. Toss the ice cubes in the baking sheet and immediately close the door (this produces steam and a great crust). Bake for 20 minutes. Turn the oven down to 400, slide the bread from the parchment directly onto the stone, rotating it a little as you do so, and continue baking for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the bread is deep golden brown (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the bread should read about 211 degrees). When it's done, turn off the oven, open the oven door slightly, and leave the bread in the oven for 5 minutes.
Remove the bread and transfer it to a wire rack. Glaze with the remaining melted butter and cool completely.
As Rose instructs, tear this bread rather than cut it. The texture is eternally satisfying.

smother me with love: spicy smothered chicken and butter beans

foodorleans — Tue, 15 May 2012 12:34:04 CDT

Twice, I've asked a native New Orleanian woman what her family's favorite thing that she cooked was, and been pleasantly surprised by hearing an answer that I'd never heard before in my short, sheltered life. The first was "rice and gravy," and the second was "chicken and butter beans." My road to understanding rice and gravy was a winding one, but I think I've got it down (I wrote about that experience for the Southern Food & Beverage Museum, which you can find a link to on my "Elsewhere" page).

Chicken and butter beans was something altogether different; I didn't even know what a butter bean was. Lynn Becnel, whom I worked with at Tulane, said it was her husband's favorite dish of all. I was eager to try it, and found some freshly packaged butter beans at a local vegetable stand. I know my way around a bean, so I did what I always do with dry beans: I soaked them. Take note here that butter beans don't need soaking. You can do it, but you'll end up with a bunch of white beans shedding their tender skins as if it were molting season. You'll also probably stand there over the bowl, wondering if you're supposed to help them by popping off the skins of those who still have them. That's what I did. Let's just say my beans disintegrated in the pot!

Now I've learned, through trial, error, and some good advice from Lynn, that you just don't cook butter beans very long (and certainly don't soak them). They're tender, rich, and creamy--a perfect starchy addition to smothered chicken. Smothered chicken is basically a chicken fricasee with some extra vegetables added, along with stock, to produce a thick gravy. In other words, it's like a big group hug. I jazzed this one up with a good dose of Tabasco Green Sauce, which is probably not as spicy as you think. The Tabasco gives the whole works a shake up, like drunk aunt Mimi on Treme. All group hugs should have one of those.

spicy smothered chicken and butter beans

This is especially good over biscuits, with a side of sliced red garden tomatoes. You can also add chopped fresh tomatoes to the gravy in the skillet, if you like.

1 whole chicken, cut up into 8 serving pieces
1/3 cup Tabasco Green Pepper Sauce, plus 2 Tablespoons

1 cup dried butter beans (large limas), rinsed and sorted (or 1 15-oz can butter beans, drained)
1 bay leaf

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, diced
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced
1 green bell pepper, diced small
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme (or 2 sprigs fresh)
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup minced parsley

Marinate the chicken: Rinse the chicken pieces, pat them dry, and place in a large bowl. Add 1/3 cup Tabasco Green Pepper Sauce and turn the pieces around in it to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes, while you get the beans cooking.
Meanwhile, cook the butter beans: Place the beans and bay leaf in a medium saucepan and cover with water by 4 inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 40 to 50 minutes, until the beans are very tender when tested (the skins will pucker up and look frilly at first, but will stretch and relax as they cook). Drain and set aside.
While the beans are cooking, remove the chicken from the refrigerator. Combine the flour, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Lightly coat each chicken piece in the seasoned flour.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet with deep sides over medium-high heat. Add half the chicken and cook until browned on both sides, about 10 minutes per batch. Remove chicken to a plate and repeat until all the chicken is browned.
To the same skillet, add the onions, celery, and bell pepper (add extra oil if the skillet is dry), and saute for 5 to 7 minutes, until softened. Add the jalapeno, garlic, and thyme, and saute another minute or two.
Add the chicken stock and 2 Tablespoons Tabasco Green Sauce, and combine well. Nestle the chicken pieces back into the skillet, skin side-up, and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and partially cover; simmer for 30 minutes.
Add the reserved butter beans to the skillet, replace partial cover, and simmer another 10 to 15 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the gravy is thick. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper, or Tabasco Green if necessary (I added about a teaspoon more salt). Serve hot, sprinkled with parsley.

serves 6 to 8

Disclaimer: Tabasco compensated me for creating this recipe.

my green heaven, continued: fried green tomato parmesan

foodorleans — Wed, 09 May 2012 09:29:12 CDT

Because I love them so, I've written a couple of love letters to fried green tomatoes over the years: the fried green tomato caprese "salad" I made without remorse, and fried green tomato BLTs, a longtime favorite. Green tomatoes are so good when fried, I think a lot of folks never try them other ways, like in a salsa or gazpacho. I really, really want to use them in recipes like that. I really do! But when I think of them fried, I just can't resist.

It just so happens that fried green tomatoes work extremely well in a "parmesan," or a casserole of breaded, fried something (usually eggplant or chicken) layered with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and parmesan cheese. The tomatoes are a little tangy, so they add a lot of character to the dish, but they're also a lot easier to fry than eggplant, which always soaks up so much oil. The tomatoes stand up to frying and still soften without a lot of oil, so you actually end up with something quite a bit lighter here than eggplant parmesan. Which is total lagniappe, if you ask me.

If you use real-deal Parmigiano-Reggiano, you will be so pleased with yourself. Really! I like this on spaghetti, but you can serve it pastaless, or over rice, or potatoes, or as an awesome po-boy filling. Really.

fried green tomato parmesan

3 large, firm green tomatoes, cored and sliced 1/2" thick
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup milk
2 cups Italian-seasoned breadcrumbs
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 cups good marinara sauce (I use Newman's Own)
6 thin slices mozzarella or provolone cheese (or 2 cups grated)
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
cooked spaghetti or other pasta, for serving

Preheat the oven to 350.
Mix the egg and milk in a shallow dish and set aside; combine breadcrumbs, flour, and 1/2 cup Parmesan in another shallow dish.
Melt the butter and oil together in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Dredge the tomato slices first in the egg mixture, then in the breadcrumb mixture, pressing to help it adhere. Add the dredged tomatoes to the skillet (I do this in two batches, to fit) and cook on each side for 3 to 4 minutes, until tender but still firm. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.
To assemble: spread one cup of marinara sauce in the bottom of an 8"-square baking dish. Top with 1/3 of the tomatoes and 1/3 of the mozzarella. Repeat the same layer twice more. Sprinkle the 1/4 cup Parmesan on top of the last layer of mozzarella.
Cover and bake for 15 minutes; remove cover and bake another 5 to 10 minutes, until the top gets browny and bubbly.
Let rest for about 5 minutes before serving. It's hot!

serves 4

how i learned the true meaning of jazz fest

foodorleans — Tue, 08 May 2012 09:39:23 CDT

Up to this year, Jazz Fest, to me, had always been a puzzle of trying to figure out which day contained the most acts I wanted to see (read: knew who they were) and could therefore maximize my $65 ticket. We actually went on two days this year, thanks to a pair of free tickets from our neighbors. But the first Sunday, which we'd been planning to attend ever since we heard he was slated, was primarily about seeing Bruce Springsteen, someone Paul and I have spent many nights singing into the wee hours. He's kind of a big deal in our house, if you know what I mean. Since we don't arrive very early, we couldn't get very close to the stage, but we still managed a decent far-away view and a good shot at the jumbotron:

And you know what? Bruce did NOT disappoint. In fact, he was better than I expected him to be. There's a reason he's called the Boss, folks. He inspired me to be a better performer (which I still do, from time to time) by reminding me that great performances are always more about the audience than the performer. So true! When I left, I felt like a new person.

But hear me when I say: there is so much more going on at Jazz Fest than the big names! So much more. While you're waiting on the next big name to set up onstage, wander around to the smaller stages and stay a while. Set your beer down and dance! Sing along. Second Line. Make sure you see some Mardi Gras Indians.

THIS was my favorite place this year: the Heritage Stage. Here you can barely see some Mardi Gras Indians who were backing up Big Chief Monk Boudreaux. He's a great performer, singing all kinds of classics like Little Liza Jane, Big Chief, Iko Iko, all the good stuff.

The second weekend, we caught part of TBD's (a blistering, good-time brass band) set on the same stage. If you look closely, you can see a tiny drummer standing right in front of the tuba player. He's got a snare strapped to him. Tiny!

There are some beautiful stages tucked away, also: the Lagniappe stage is in the racetrack paddock, so you have to go in the building to get to it. But it's gorgeous in there! It's also where you can get some raw oysters. Here are the New Orleans Moonshiners (with one of my favorite clarinet players) on the Lagniappe:

The People's Health tent shows a lot of old-school jazz and big band, and has a little dance floor for those who like to jitterbug.

And the Blues Tent always has something worth checking out. Paul caught Glen David Andrews here last Sunday and said it was one of the best performances he's seen in his LIFE! Dang. There are several other tents and stages, so just rest assured that if everyone's going to Bruce Springsteen and you're all like, "Not really a fan," you WILL find something you like at Jazz Fest. So go! Don't even think about it.

I was thrilled to get one of my old favorite fair foods this year, an Indian Taco!! Growing up in Oklahoma, Indian Tacos were one of the major hits at all our fairs and festivals. We do them a little differently up there, with a piece of fry bread as big as a plate so you can fold it around your taco fillings, but this one was still quite tasty, if a little small:

My soul was very happy to eat this. Also in that area, you can see people weaving traditional Chitimacha baskets, and Native American dancers in their show costumes performing. These dancers are from northern tribes and are following their festival circuit. I love seeing the fancy dancers: more memories of my Oklahoma childhood and field trips to pow wows.

A girl performing the Hoop Dance: she collects these hoops while dancing around really fast, and spreads them out across her back like wings. Amazing!

Fancy Shawl dance

And here are the Fancy Dancers, in their huge costumes, dancing at a furious pace!

I love it. Seeing these dancers was one of my favorite parts of the whole festival!

Then, there was food:

some awesome boudin balls from Food Area I.

so many choices...

My favorite new snack, from Food Area II: sweet potato chips dusted with powdered sugar. Sort of a more health-conscious version of a funnel cake. You know, because it's vegetables.

But at the end of the day, Jazz Fest isn't about just music or food; it's about celebrating the city of New Orleans. You can do that by going to the festival every spring, or you can do it by going out to see live music and eat good food any old weekend: you certainly don't need to go inside the gates to have a good time. There are shows all over the city once the gates close, and you can even catch a free dance party every night on Ponce de Leon, down the street from Canseco's. It's a blast!

one cheeky chowder: chipotle shrimp and corn soup

foodorleans — Sun, 06 May 2012 15:49:44 CDT

Last week, I wrote a bit about a shrimp stock that Alon Shaya of Domenica prepared before our eyes at Avery Island. I couldn't wait to try his technique of "bashing around the shrimp heads" to extract more shrimpy flavor. So the first chance I got, this past Thursday's farmer's market, I bought some fresh jumbo shrimp to make a stock of my own.

dining in at dooky chase

foodorleans — Wed, 02 May 2012 09:53:04 CDT

Dooky Chase Restaurant, in the Treme

Yesterday, Paul and I found ourselves at Dooky Chase for lunch, after considering a few of our favorite lunch spots. Something about yesterday just felt like we needed to try something new. We've actually eaten some of Leah Chases's food before, her famous green gumbo and fried chicken on Holy Thursday, but we got takeout that day because there wasn't a seat to be had. Dining in at Dooky Chase is an experience not to be missed. The building itself is unassuming, but once inside you find yourself in a well appointed dining room, white tablecloths and all, with an amazing, colorful art collection (and several of Leah Chase's awards). The art will keep your eyes satiated and your conversation sparked throughout your meal.

Satchmo winner! And a bit of breadlove.

foodorleans — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:27:32 CDT

This bread is a real winner! But first, we have news:

Thanks to everyone who left a comment last week on my first ever giveaway! I'm happy to announce that the winner of the Louis Armstrong recording is John Mark! John Mark, send me your address at thesouploop@gmail.com and I'll get this on its way to you.

Avery Island, part deux: boils, bottles, bloodies & boudin

foodorleans — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 10:59:35 CDT

This was my lunch. I ate it all.

Avery Island is a gorgeous place; it's surrounded by a long lace of bayous, has plenty of wildlife roaming around freely (deer, bears, raccoons, alligators), and houses the beautiful Jungle Gardens and Bird Sanctuary. You can spend a full day there soaking up the splendor, especially if you pack in a trip to the Tabasco factory.

satchmo, rice calas, and a giveaway

foodorleans — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 09:57:44 CDT

Today, April 24, Smithsonian Folkways is reissuing a rare live recording that Louis Armstrong, New Orleans' favorite son, recorded just months before he died in 1972. Not only does the CD package (or digital download, your choice) contain Louis Armstrong classics like Mack the Knife and Hello Dolly, but it also includes a 16-page booklet with some of Armstrong's favorite New Orleans recipes! I got a huge kick out of reading recipes for things like "Oysters a la Gov. James Noe," "New Orleans Pussy Fingers" (catfish strips), and "Walter McIlhenny's Frogs a la Creole." These are some classic recipes that need to be read and prepared, even if altered, to keep them alive. I was most excited, though, to find the recipe for Rice Calas--deep-fried rice fritters that were commonly sold as street food in New Orleans. Served warm, with a powdered sugar sprinkle and dipped into Steen's Cane Syrup, there may be no finer breakfast. More on the callas in a minute!

of mash, marsh, and memorable meals

foodorleans — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 12:05:58 CDT

It all starts with seeds...

Last week, I visited Avery Island, Louisiana, the home of the McIlhenny Company and Tabasco. Lucky me! I and nine other food writers (Amy Sherman, Camper English, Hank Shaw, Sarah Spigelman, Jeffrey Pogash, Gaby Dulkin, Jenna Weber, Lori Lange, and Jessica of Modern Day Moms) toured the fields, barrel warehouse, processing factory, and the island itself, and had some amazing food along the way. I'm still reeling over a particular dark chocolate torta made with Tabasco Sweet & Spicy Sauce....swoon! Plus, we stayed at the beautiful Marsh House, the homestead of the Avery McIlhenny families, which was nice and cozy, especially during Monday night's thunderstorm.